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Category Archives: french

Fougasse

09 Wednesday Oct 2013

Posted by Zoli in bread, comfort food, fougasse, french, the basics, vegan, Vegetarian

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

fougasse, French bread, homemade bread, Kitchen Aid, rosemary

fougasse fougasse, french bread
I. Was. So. Excited. To pull these babies out of the oven. I haven’t eaten this in YEARS. It’s a yummy flatbread, originating from the south of France. I’ve never made it before, but was thinking about it the other day and well, the memory calls to the heart which commands the fingers which get out the flour and the yeast and etc. When I ate this in a French restaurant it was with caramelized onion and gruyere. I’ve since seen loads of olive and sun-dried tomato versions. This is my humble fresh rosemary and garlic offering. Was it sad that the only people around to share my excitement were little people? I interrupted my son’s playdate and said something like, “Oh my god, do you guys want some of my bread?!”
My son said, “Their grandma said they can’t eat anything, but I can eat it instead.”
A composed six-year old said, “I think just a little bit is ok.”
“Great!” I said, tearing off pieces of fougasse, slathering it in butter for their little hands.
“Come on, hurry up,” said a four-year old with enormous blue eyes.
My son said, “Don’t tell your grandma,” through his mouthful of bread.
They disappeared around the corner.
“Wait!” I called, “What do you guys think? Is it good?!”
By dinner time, I wasn’t too hungry, as I’d kind of gorged on amazing bread and a glass of Côtes du Rhône. Who cares? This would be perfect as a ‘grazing’ supper with wine, some fruit, nice cheese and olives. Something simple to enjoy one of the great simple pleasures in life: fresh-baked bread. Especially bread that looks as beautiful as this. I told my daughter it looked like a leaf. She said it looked like a fossil.

Fougasse
makes two flatbreads
500g or 2 and 1/2 cups of flour
1/2 tsp dried active yeast or 1 tsp instant yeast
12 fl oz hot water
olive oil
1 tsp salt
fresh rosemary, chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
extra virgin olive oil and sea salt for garnish
kitchen aid*

*I used my Kitchen Aid to mimic something I saw the French Pastry School do. Many recipes for fougasse involve it rising in the fridge overnight, but the French Pastry School has a recipe for kneading the dough on a fast speed of the Kitchen Aid and they only have it rising for a few hours. If you don’t have one, hand-knead and put in a covered and oiled bowl in the fridge overnight before starting step 4.

1) If using fresh yeast (you lucky dog), rub it into the flour in a large bowl. Otherwise, add the flour, dried yeast and salt together in a bowl and mix.
2) Add hot water (hand-hot, not boiling) and use a wooden spoon to mix to a wet sticky dough. Add a little bit more water if the dough is dry. Let rest for a couple minutes while you get the rosemary and garlic ready.
3) Scrape into a kitchen aid and using a dough hook, knead the dough on the first setting for one minute. Then turn up to number 3 and knead for a few minutes.
4) Add in the chopped rosemary and garlic and knead on the first setting for another minute or two. (Or knead the rosemary and garlic in by hand)
5) Scrape into an oiled bowl and cover tightly with a cloth and something heavy resting on it. Let rise for at least an hour. 2 hours is better.
6) Cut the risen dough (still sticky) in half with a hand scraper or a thin wooden utensil. Set one half of it aside for now. Starting with the first half, gently fold it over itself to form a nice round shape. With a rolling pin, roll it out on a floured surface gently to form a rectangle shape. Take a pizza cutter or sharp edged scraper and slice down the middle of the bread. Gently pull it apart. Then make three diagonal slits on each side of that cut and gently pull apart. The dough will rise again so the holes need to be fairly big. Place on a tray covered with baking parchment. Repeat with the other half of the dough.
fougasse bread dough
fougasse bread dough
7) I’m not sure if my idea for ‘proofing’ in my oven helped much, but this is what I did and it worked: Warm the oven, then turn off the heat and set a small pan of boiling water in the oven for steaming. Put the two trays of formed dough in the oven to ‘proof’ for 30 minutes. They should come out a bit puffy with a slight skin, like this:
fougasse bread dough
8) Take out of the oven and preheat the oven to the highest setting.
9) Gently brush the formed dough with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt.
10) When the oven is hot, put them in to bake for about 10 minutes, or till golden brown. If they are on different racks, switch them halfway through.
Enjoy!!
fougasse, french bread

fougasse, french bread

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Pastry for eclairs, cream puffs and all sorts of fancy Frenchiness

24 Sunday Feb 2013

Posted by Zoli in dessert, french, kids, party bites, pastry

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cream puffs with chocolate glaze

I’m kind of on a French kick at the moment–or French inspired anyway. I have plans to face several of my cooking fears, for example I am terrible at poached eggs and hollandaise (or berenaise, or you name the naise). But today, it’s the cream puff. Choux paste (or pate a choux) plus a custardy cream plus a chocolate glaze. Or berries. Or chestnut cream. And on and on…

This pastry is the basis for many lovely things such as eclairs, french crullers, profiteroles, croquembouches, beignets (although the recipe I use for beignets is not traditional) and so much more. The big difference between beignets and choux pastry is beignets are deep fried and choux pastry is baked–or rather steamed–in the oven. Healthier, no? No. Because you then stuff it with cream and drench it in chocolate.

ingredients for choux pastry, pate a choux

If you google it there are many recipes out there for ‘basic choux paste’ or ‘how to make the perfect choux paste’ and guess what? they’re all quite similar. This is what I did for about 30 cream puffs.

Ingredients

1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup water
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 tbsp extra fine granulated sugar
1 stick unsalted butter, cubed
1 cup flour (I used bread flour, but you don’t have to)
1 cup eggs, loosely beaten (I used 4 large eggs)

I plan on sharing my mistakes with you so that you won’t mess up as I totally did! My first mistake was not reading the recipe all the way through before I started. Doh! Second mistake: Although I had all my ingredients prepped I did not have all my equipment to hand and this hurt me when it came time for the cream filling. I was also cooking Ruth Reichl’s hashbrowns at the same time (I truly was!). So get out all your trusty appliances beforehand.

1. Begin by heating up the milk, water, sugar, salt and butter.

2. As soon as it boils, take it off the heat and add in the flour. I sifted the flour in and made a mess all over my stove. But it was fine.

boiling milk for choux paste, pate a choux

Stir the flour in until well mixed and you have something that resembles a giant ball of buttery play dough.

adding eggs to choux pastry

3. Whisk in the eggs, a little at a time, until you have a soft batter with wet sheen to it. Or add this to your Kitchen Aid and use a paddle attachment to combine the egg in stages. Using a hand whisk worked for me and bonus, I didn’t have to clean a Kitchen Aid.

Keep an eye on the batter. I may have added just a drop too much egg. Yes, this is a soft wet batter but it needs to hold its shape once it’s been piped onto the baking tray. Here’s mine.

choux pastry ready for the oven

4. Preheat the oven to 350 and pipe the batter onto the baking trays covered with baking parchment. They can be close together. The trick to these pastry puffs is to steam them in the oven. So do not open the oven door to check on them! (You will do this at the very end when they are nearly cooked.) Spy on them through your oven window around the 20 minute mark and see if they’ve puffed up. Mine did not the first time and I took them out too soon.

Here’s a sad little picture of my fail.

Choux pastry fail

5. Once they look like they’ve puffed up, crack the oven slightly and let them dry out and the tops crisp a little. When I let mine cook a little longer they turned out alright. (For eclairs, just pipe out a long tube shape and cook about 5 minutes longer.)

Here’s my success!

choux pastry success

6. Now you can create whatever you like. Make a cream filling, glaze them, fill them with whipped cream and strawberries, or nutella. They were very good with nutella, but what isn’t?

I decided to try the cream filling.

cream puffs, choux

Ingredients for pastry cream

For first phase:
1 cup milk
1/4 cup cream
1/4 cup extra fine sugar
vanilla bean (ideally) or vanilla extract (shhh!)

For second phase:
3 large egg yolks
2 tbsp extra fine sugar
3 tbsp cornstarch

If you’re going to go all the way and make the cream filling, you will need: a medium or large-sized pot, a large bowl and an electric mixer.

1. Bring the milk, cream and sugar and vanilla bean (or add tsp of vanilla extract at the end) to boil.

2. With an electric mixer, whisk the egg yolks and the 2 tbsp extra fine sugar and then whisk in the cornstarch Do not leave the milk boiling for a long time while you do this! It will burn on the bottom of the pan. This should all be a quick process.

3. Ladle some of the boiling milk to the eggs and keep whisking to combine and bring the eggs up to temperature. Needless to say, you do not want to have scrambled eggs. You want a hot eggy liquid.

4. Pour the egg mixture into the pot of hot milk. Bring to boil again and whisk quickly until it turns into a thick but runny liquid. (If not using a vanilla bean, add the vanilla extract at this stage). It should look like this.

making the pastry cream

5. Chill on ice or put in the fridge to thicken up more. You can flavor with a liqueur as well.
6. When the cream is cooled down and nice and thick, pipe it into the pastries.

Chocolate glaze.

I did not use a recipe, I just mixed in nice cocoa powder with powdered sugar, a little melted butter and a drop of vanilla. Or you can melt nice chocolate, mix it with heavy cream and leave to cool and thicken.

Glaze your pastries and enjoy!

cream puffs with chocolate

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